Shellfish Primer

An array of fresh shellfish, courtesy of local Strip District-favorite, Wholey’s.

TABLE’s “Food Education” series aims to open up the doors of possibility for some new adventures for the taste buds. First up: shellfish!

Clams

Clams can heighten humble recipes to extraordinary heights. Shown here are northern quahogs, also known as the Atlantic hard-shell clam. Classed by size as topnecks or littlenecks, they come predominantly from the coastal waters of Virginia. Littlenecks are less chewy and can be enjoyed raw on the half shell.

Easy to prepare, clams reward even beginners with an expansive flavor profile and an affinity for absorbing the flavors that surround them. In our direct-from-Italy Tuscan Clam Soup recipe, for example, they offer a briny balance amid the acidy ping of tomato, bouquet of white wine, and aromatic garlic notes. Clams also add a perfect salty bit to pasta, and are at home in most chowders.

Oysters

It is fair to compare oysters to wine. As much as the vine's temperature, soil, and age inform the grape's complexity, the 200 varieties of oyster are similarly shaped by their aquatic terroir. Shown here are Wholey’s Chesapeake oysters, which are milder in taste than most Pacific, Eastern, Kumamoto, Olympia or European oysters because of the Chesapeake Bay’s brackish mix of freshwater and seawater.

When in the presence of a fine fresh oyster, simplicity is the best option: carefully shuck one, and add just a gentle squeeze of lemon or a dab of cocktail sauce to open the palate. More elaborate oyster dishes, however, are wonderful, such as Roasted Oysters with Cornbread, Leek & Banana Peppers from Chef Sarah Baugher of The Speckled Egg.

Mussels

Coldwater blue mussels harvested from the waters of the Eastern Seaboard coast can be found naturally, but most are farmed on suspended ropes and harvested commercially. Available year-round, this rich and hearty bivalve is a fatty and briny bite strong enough to carry a main dish or subtle enough for a little mystery as part of a more layered recipe, like our Coconut Curry Mussels. A traveling circus of bold yet balanced flavors, this dish is a solid introduction to mussels at home. Remember to avoid mussels with cracked shells…and if it doesn’t smell fresh, it isn’t.

Lobster

In the words of Pittsburgh seafood master, Sam Wholey, “Lobsters are the most delicious and versatile meat.” For the best lobster experience, choose a live lobster: the sweetest, freshest, buttery bite comes from fresh, in-the-tank lobsters. Most folks boil a fresh lobster and dip the cooked meat in drawn butter with a bit of fresh lemon juice. Sam also offers fully cooked lobster claws and knuckle meat which you can use to introduce your family to this delicacy in the form, perhaps, of Lobster Mac & Cheese.

Snow Crab

You may know something about snow crabs by watching the Deadliest Catch on the Discovery Channel. Entertainment value aside, snow crab is another delicious and versatile gift from the ocean floor. Unlike their burlier king-crab cousins, snow crabs are smaller with a more delicate shell. Their meat is tender and sweet and best enjoyed, in our opinion, in a quick dip of melted butter after a brisk 5- to 10-minute steam bath. You will likely buy frozen since they are harvested in Alaska and Canada between October and January. If you’re searching for a dish in which to include snow crab, try Chef Jackie Page’s Jarlsberg & Crab Quiche.

Scallops

“Like clams and oysters, scallops are bivalves,” says Sam Wholey. “They are active swimmers propelling themselves by clapping their shells together using a muscle called the eye, the part of the scallop that is eaten.” Harvested live from the North Atlantic, they must be processed immediately and iced. Scallops cook very quickly. If using extra-virgin olive oil, which is ideal, a quick sear beautifully textures the scallop without compromising the oil or its smoke point of 400 degrees. Add them to salad or pasta, and it’s a party. Station’s Chef Curtis Gamble took us on a Scallop Carpaccio adventure with his plating of thinly sliced scallops, bergamot, tarragon, and green olives.

Gulf Shrimp

Fresh from the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico, Gulf shrimp have a distinctly mild and earthy flavor attributed to low and coastal tides. Shrimpers use a large cone-shaped net to harvest the abundant shrimp along the Gulf Coast waters, yielding about five million pounds each year. Their texture is dense and full of protein, making them perfect for a main course dish, perhaps of a southeast Asian variety, or Contributing Editor Anna Calabrese’s Pan-Roasted Shrimp with Clams, Asparagus & Leeks.

STORY BY GABE GOMEZ / PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE BRYCE / SHELLFISH COURTESY OF ROBERT WHOLEY & CO.

Try some of TABLE’s shellfish recipes:

Tuscan Clam Soup

Roasted Oysters with Cornbread, Leek & Banana Pepper Crumble

Coconut Curry Mussels

Jarlsberg & Crab Quiche

Scallop Carpaccio

Pan-Roasted Shrimp with Clams, Asparagus & Leeks

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